How Should A Polo Shirt Fit?

With the ‘rise of casual’, I thought it would be good to do a quick write up on the polo, it’s origins and how we should be wearing them.

The polo’s history is debated, but it was tennis great René Lacoste, who created the version we know today. Those refinements included short sleeves for ease of movement, an unrestrictive, softer collar and a split hem (tennis tail)

The traditional fabric was a breathable piqué cotton. The polo shirt was ideal for battling it out on the tennis courts, and the collar kept some formality to have a drink in the club after.

Today, polos are are worn mostly off the court and in our new WFH environment, in almost every ZOOM call.

It’s a piece with extreme versatility. There are smart and casual ways to wear a modern polo, and now, they range from retro knit styles or made-to-order to be worn with suits.

Whether you’re wearing it for a night out or a morning on the courts, you need to be getting the fit right. Let’s get into it.

Shoulders

The shoulder seam should sit on your shoulders, not further down the arms. Anything baggy will look sloppy and lose any semblance of formality. You also don’t want it tight across the shoulders, which will cause it to pull up under your arms.

Sleeves

They should come halfway down your biceps. Anything shorter looks too vintage, shrunken, and not that flattering. Aim for a slim fit around the arms also. You want to be able to move in your polo, and you don’t want it to be ultra-tight. My rule: If you can slide one finger between the sleeve and your skin, you’re looking good.

Hem Length

Traditional polo shirts are about an inch longer in the back, which is to help it stay snug when tucked in. When untucked, the polo shirt should sit fall below your belt, but not past the bottom of your pockets. Dress polos, or long sleeve polos, may have a rounded hem bottom, which looks great. If you plan on wearing it tucked in with a suit, I’d suggest a slightly longer option. (custom-made perhaps)

Chest

Again, slim, not skinny. It shouldn’t be so snug that you can see every bump beneath. If you can pinch an inch or two of fabric, I’d say you’re on the right track.

Collar

When the collar is buttoned to the top, you want it to sit flat. It shouldn’t be pulling. If it does, the shirt’s too small and you should go up a size. There are a variety of collars with different styles of polos shirts. The ABBEYDALE polo tends to have a taller collar to be worn with tailoring. So it “sits up” with a sport coat on.

The more athletic types tend to have unstructured small collars. These are cooler, and cumbersome free when swinging the club.

Lastly, I’m not a fan of a tech-fabric polo for formal business. Save that for the golf course, my guy.