Take Care: Shirting

I received this question (keep em' coming) from a client and friend "Mr. BF." 

"Hey, David – I do have a general maintenance question. With button-down shirts, what’s the best upkeep strategy? I tend to see some sweat stains around the neck area/pits and as well as wrinkled up typically after a couple of wears when they usually need a refreshing. Should I generally be taking these to the dry cleaner to be steamed/pressed, dry cleaned, or what? 

Let's get into it. 
White Shirts 
Let's start with the staple of every man's wardrobe, a good white shirt. 

It's indispensable yet can be a little high maintenance. From the yellow stains around the collar and underarms to red wine down the placket – the pitfalls are plenty. 

The golden rule? 

Ditch your antiperspirant or deodorant that contains aluminum. The aluminum mixed with salt is the largest culprit for the underarm "gold." I use this 

Stains
To get stains out of your shirts, mix hydrogen peroxide with dish soap and apply it.  Let the mixture sit for 30  minutes before rinsing it off with cold water.  You can also try rubbing the stain with lemon juice or white wine, which should help them come out in the wash.

If out in public, be quick with some soda water...that should hold you over until you can clean at home.Dry Cleaning 
The purest would say to avoid dry cleaning, but let's be real. I know I don't have the time to hand wash and press my shirts every week. I do suggest, if you do dry clean, you should occasionally wash to eliminate any dry cleaning residue (chemicals). 

Also, try to avoid heavy starch. Heavy starch will wear down the fibers of your shirts quick fast. Try and use light starch (or none at all) when having them cleaned. Save the heavy starch for events, like black tie when you need that tuxedo shirt looking crispy. 
Avoid Sketchy Detergents and High Heat When it comes to the laundering process, avoid the use of biological washing detergents as these tend to erode the fabric. Most dry cleaners (the good ones) are using organic chemicals these days. But I would double-check with your provider. 

Also, if you ever see brown spots on your shirts after dry-cleaning, run for the hills. Your cleaner has their press setting way too high, and it's burning your shirts. I'd find another shop. 
Take Care When Washing 
OK, so you do want to wash your shirts. Awesome. Just be sure to do so on a cold wash temperature. Cleaning them on high heat will make the fabric brittle and rip. 
Washing will cause shrinkage for the first time, usually no more than 5-7 percent if you follow the instructions. Bear this in mind when you make your purchase. Make sure you can fit a couple of fingers between the inside collar and your neck. (This will be accounted for when going custom with ABBEYDALE) 

Hang Your Shirts Hang your shirts up as soon as you've washed them. This helps the creases fall out as they dry, and helps to avoid the mildew that can occur when folding shirts if they're still slightly damp. 

Iron Damp Iron them with plenty of steam and if they happen to be slightly damp then even better. This will result in the cleanest press and prevent the fabric from getting worn out on the face. 
Alternate Your Shirts 
As with suits; it is always advisable to have more than five shirts in your wardrobe, one for each day of the working week. Never over wear the same shirt, alternate them evenly, and you will get a much longer life span. As soon as they start showing signs of wear on the cuff edge and collar, then it's time to say goodbye. Don't be too precious. 

A good rule of thumb is for guys starting in the workplace, shoot for seven good shirts to rotate. For the established businessman wearing one 5x a week, I'd shoot for 12-15. This will keep your rotation strong and not have to visit the dry cleaners so often. 

Make sure you always have at least two white shirts, two blue and one pink/lilac in your wardrobe. This will give you the foundations to invest in stripes and checks later on. 
Buy Yarn-Dyed + Quality Cotton
Invest in yarn-dyed shirts, (dyed as yarn, before being woven) as these are colorfast (dyed in colors that will not fade or be washed out). 

I would always choose fine cotton and not a polyester or rayon mix (cheap). These can cause sweat and can irritate the skin.

A side note on "wrinkle-free".  If it is truly wrinkle-free you're going to be dealing with a mostly synthetic material (think dry-fit type).  Now, technology has improved in this arena the last few years, so we're seeing more cotton mixed with synthetics at the mill level, making them wrinkle-resistant and much softer.  

You need to make the call...a 100% cotton shirt will always feel the best and honestly probably be the best on your skin, but I  do understand you travelers like the convenience of the wrinkle resistant.  I sell both.
Tailored, Not Tight 
Lastly, as with most things menswear, it comes back to fit. 

Avoid wearing anything too tight in the body. Like a customized garment, you must choose a fit that will give you comfort for the 10-12 hours that you will be wearing it. Not to mention, this allows for the typical body fluctuations we all experience throughout the year.  Slim, not Skinny.

Alright, hit me with any questions you may have!

All the best